There are three fibers from which Kashmiri shawls are made - wool, pashmina, and shahtoosh. Wool woven in Kashmir is known as "raffel" and is 100% pure wool. Many kinds of embroidery are worked on these shawls. First, "Sozni" is generally done in panels along the sides of the shawl. Motifs, usually abstract designs or stylized paisleys and flowers are worked in one or two, occasionally three colors. The stitch employed in not unlike stem stitch, only the outline of the design is embroidered. Sozni is often done so skillfully that the motif appears on both sides, each having different colors. Second, "Papier Mache" is either done in broad panels on either side of the breadth of a shawl, or covers entire surface of a stole. Flowers and leaves are worked in satin stitch in different colors and each motif is outlined in black. Third, air work is also done on shawls.
Pashmina is unmistakable for its softness. Pashmina yarn is spun from hair of Ibex found at 14,000 ft above sea level. It is on Pashmina shawls that Kashmir's most exquisite embroidery is worked, sometimes the entire surface, earning the name of
"Jamawar". Not all pashmina shawls have such lavish work done on them, some are embroidered on a narrow panel bordering all four sides, others in narrow strips running diagonally through the shawl.
Shahtoosh, the legendary "Ring shawl" is incredible for its lightness, softness, and warmth. The astronomical price it commands in the market is due to the scarcity of the raw material. High in the plateau of Tibet and eastern part of Ladakh roams Tibetan antelope. During grazing a few strands of hair from the throat are shed and it is these which are painstakingly collected until there are enough for a shawl. Not only are the shawls from these yarn very expensive , they can be only loosely woven and are too flimsy for embroidery. Unlike wool and Pashmina shawls, shahtoosh is seldom dyed.
Shahtoosh is banned in most of the countries and we are not hence dealing in manufacture or sale of the product and above paragraph is for information only.